The name is an obvious nod to one of the world’s sartorial capitals, not to mention a city that was once an important centre of hat making (and thus the origin of the word “milliner”). But more to the point, this is a hat inspired by what many think of as the Italian style sensibility, that being a quality of laid back elegance, the feeling that one both cares and doesn’t care at the same time. To achieve that sensibility, the Milaner combines a soft, malleable welterweight crown with a fixed open-roll brim. The centre crease of the crown is set with steam, but a front pinch (or any other denting) is left to the whims of handling. The open-roll is not a snap brim, nor is it a fully curled brim, but rather something in between (see the chapter on brims in the Primer). It provides some of the elegant curvature and silhouette of, say, a Lord’s hat (see the Londoner) but avoids explicit dressiness. Add the nonchalance of a randomly handled bash in the crown and presto!—il modo Italiano! As noted below, the open-roll brim can be made in a range of widths. However, keep in mind that due to the nature of the flange on which it is pressed, a wider cut in the width does not so much mean a visually wider brim, but rather a deepening of the roll, especially toward the wider end of the range. This style is particularly convincing as an elegant spring or summer hat, and when intended as such is best fitted with a perforated sweatband and a linen lining.


Hudson Block

Brim: 23/8 - 23/4 inches

Ribbon: French heirloom grosgrain 17 ligne

$ 640 Canadian - convert currency


Colour shown: limestone. Ribbon: chestnut.

Brim cut at 21/inches.

the “Milaner”

The hatter himself wearing the prototype Milaner. The brim here is cut at 2-1/2 inches, producing a fairly shallow roll. Colour: tusk. Ribbon: blazer.

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